Baseball Cards
Standard Card Grading Scale
Pristine10
A Pristine 10 is a virtually flawless card to the naked eye. The centering is 50/50, and the card has flawless color and registration. All cards that merit a CGC Pristine 10 grade will receive a special CGC Cards Pristine 10 label.
Gem Mint10
A Gem Mint 10 is a card that has received a 10 grade overall; however, one of the grading criteria does not meet the requirements of a Pristine 10. Corners will appear perfect to the naked eye and Mint+ under 10x magnification. The surface is free of print spots and should also display perfect gloss, devoid of any surface flaws. Centering is not to exceed approximately 55/45, and reverse centering is not to exceed 75/25.
Mint+9.5
A Mint+ 9.5 is a card that displays premium eye appeal for a Mint card. Qualities such as exceptional centering, surface qualities/color or other key elements can elevate a card to a Mint+ grade.
Mint9
A Mint card has four sharp corners with only minor wear visible. Slight minor flaws on the edges may be visible. The surface must have all original gloss; however, a small number of specks or one minor spot or surface defect is allowed. For TCG cards, cards will have only a few minor manufacturing or handling defects. For sports and non-sports cards, centering must be 60/40 or better for the front of the card, and 90/10 for the back.
NM/Mint+8.5
A card graded 8.5 has relatively smooth edges with only minor touches of wear. It must have original color borders and gloss. One of the following very minor flaws is allowed: corners are sharp to the naked eye but reveal slight imperfections under magnification; a small amount of minor print spots; subtle focus imperfections of the image. A very slight diamond cut is allowed. TCG cards could show small handing defects.
NM/Mint8
A card graded 8 must have relatively smooth edges with only minor touches of wear. It must have original color borders and gloss. One of the following very minor flaws is allowed: corners are sharp to the naked eye but reveal slight imperfections under magnification; a small amount of minor print spots; subtle focus imperfections of the image. A very slight diamond cut is allowed. TCG cards could have small-to-moderate handling defects. For sports and non-sports cards, centering must be 65/35 or better.
Near Mint+7.5
A card graded 7.5 may also have a touch of wear on two or three corners or slightly rough edges. The image may be slightly out of register. A slight diamond cut is allowed, and very slight wax staining is allowed on the reverse. TCG cards could have a moderate defect or a number of small handling defects. For sports and non-sports cards, 65/35 centering is allowed.
Near Mint7
A card graded 7 may also have a touch of wear on three or more corners and/or slightly rough edges. The image may be slightly out of register. A slight diamond cut is allowed, and very slight wax staining is allowed on the reverse. For sports and non-sports cards, centering should be 70/30 or better.
Ex/NM+6.5
For a grade of 6.5, no more than one slightly “dinged” corner is allowed, or no more than two of the following flaws: two or three fuzzy corners; slightly rough edges; noticeable print spots. A moderate diamond cut is allowed, and light wax staining on the front is acceptable.
Ex/NM6
For a grade of 6, no more than one “dinged” corner is allowed or no more than two of the following flaws: two or three fuzzy corners; slightly rough edges; noticeable print spots. A moderate diamond cut is allowed, and wax staining on the front is acceptable. For sports and non-sports cards, centering may be no worse than 75/25.
Excellent+5.5
At 5.5, the corners may exhibit light “fuzzyness” and very minor rounding. The corners may come to a point but may have one or two “dinged” corners. There may also be chipping on the edges, minor border discoloration, noticeable print spots and/or color or focus imperfections on the surface.
Excellent5
At 5, the corners may exhibit “fuzzyness” and very minor rounding. The corners may come to a point but may have two to three “dinged” corners. There may also be chipping on the edges, minor border discoloration, noticeable print spots and/or color or focus imperfections on the surface. On cards with scratch-off surfaces, the coating may be removed, but the surface is not damaged.
VG/Ex+4.5
At 4.5, the corners may display slight rounding. Noticeable surface flaws may include scuffing, scratches or one light crease. While some original surface gloss may be visible, the borders may be off-white, and a small amount of minor staining is allowed. For sports and non-sports cards, the centering is 85/15, and an extremely noticeable diamond cut is allowed.
VG/Ex4
At 4, corners may display slight rounding. Noticeable surface flaws may include scuffing, scratches and one or more light creases. While some original surface gloss may be visible, borders may be off-white, and some minor staining is allowed. An extremely noticeable diamond cut is allowed.
Very Good+3.5
A Very Good+ card may have 90/10 centering and four rounded corners, but not extreme rounding. The surface may exhibit one moderate crease or more than one light crease, and may also display scuffing or scratches and loss of original gloss. The edges may have moderate wear, and moderate staining of the stock can be visible.
Very Good3
A Very Good card can have four rounded corners, but not extreme rounding. The surface may exhibit one moderate crease or more than one light crease, and may also display scuffing or scratches and loss of original gloss. The edges may have moderate wear, and heavier staining of the stock can be visible on both the front and back of the card.
Good+2.5
A card graded Good+ may have heavier creasing, but the creasing does not travel across the surface from edge to edge. The card may also have some surface damage such as one small writing mark on the back. An extremely heavy diamond cut resulting in a near miscut is allowed.
Good2
A card graded Good can have heavier creasing that may travel across the surface of the card from edge to edge. The card may also have some surface damage such as a small amount of writing on the front or back. An extremely heavy diamond cut resulting in a near miscut is allowed.
Fair1.5
A Fair card can have one catastrophic flaw such as a staple hole, small area of missing surface, severe creasing and/or writing on the surface. The card may be miscut.
Poor1
A Poor card may suffer from major surface damage such as severe creasing that breaks the surface, and/or it may be missing a small portion of the cardstock itself such as a portion of the corner that has been torn away from the card. The card will have multiple catastrophic flaws.
Designations
In certain circumstances, CGC Cards will assign designations to cards based on authenticity and/or alterations.
AuthenticAU
The Authentic designation is used for cards that are authentic and unaltered but cannot receive a numeric grade. An example is a card with a missing portion of stock, such as when a card that was meant to be hand cut falls below the published measurement tolerance, like an early 20th century strip card. Authentic will also be used if a card is below the minimum size requirements.
Authentic AlteredAA
CGC Cards will print Authentic Altered in the grade box if a card is authentic but has been altered. Examples of alterations include recoloring and trimming.
Autograph Grades
Autographs are graded on a 5 to 10 scale with no half grades.
10
A 10 is a flawless autograph. Characteristics include prominent pen pressure throughout, and no streaking or smudging of any kind. The autograph location is perfectly placed outside of any dark area and doesn’t run off of the item.
9
The eye appeal of the signature is nearly perfect; however, very slight imperfections exist in the boldness. Very minor ink welling and bleeding may be evident.
8
Some imperfections are noticeable, but the signature is still strongly displayed on the item. Slight smearing and/or smudging may exist and a small tip of the signature may run off the item.
7
Although a strong signature, there are multiple minor flaws throughout including fading, smudging and/or blemishes or wear of the autograph. A portion of the autograph may run off the item.
6
The signature is still complete and visible; however, apparent imperfections are noticeable. Several letters of the autograph may run off of the item, and imperfections are clearly visible.
5
The signature exhibits heavy aging where less than a quarter of the signature might be missing entirely.
AuthenticAU
The Authentic designation is used for autographs that are authentic but not numerically graded. Submitters can choose to have an autograph graded or not graded, but if it is deemed below an autograph grade of 5, the autograph grade will default to the Authentic designation.
Legacy Grade Key
The CGC Cards Grading Scale has been updated to reflect current industry standards. Below is a key for legacy grades that are no longer used by CGC Cards. The CGC Cards Population Report and the CGC Cards Registry reflect the updated grading scale.
Legacy Grade
Updated Grade
CGC Trading Cards Gem Mint 9.5
CGC Cards Gem Mint 10
CSG Gem Mint 9.5
CGC Cards Gem Mint 10
CGC Trading Cards Perfect 10
Retired grade; retains Perfect 10 status
CSG Perfect 10
Retired grade; retains Perfect 10 status
Rare Coins
The Numismatic World
Poor 1, Fair 2, and Almost Good 3
The lower the number, the more heavily worn the coin. On a Poor 1 (PO-1) coin, the type and date are discernible, but not much else. You’ll typically be able to see outlines of major devices, but no detail and little to no lettering. This improves gradually through Fair 2 (FA-2) and Almost Good 3 (AG-3). Interestingly, a PO-1 is typically the most valuable of these three; many people put together “lowball sets,” where the goal is to have the lowest grade coins possible, resulting in more competition for PO-1 than FA-2 or AG-3. Many collectors enjoy coins of this nature as there is a lot of history associated with them, as opposed to some uncirculated specimens that only saw unexciting movement from one safe to another, trapped in a canvas bag for 150 years. Just imagine the stories some of these well-worn coins could tell us!
Good 4, 6, and Very Good 8, 10
The lowest grade where the design really starts to become visible is Good 4 (G-4). Most of the lettering is visible, though not all, or it may be very hard to make out. Coins from G-4 through Very Good 10 (VG-10) show quite a range in terms of how much detail is visible, but all are heavily circulated and clearly spent a lot of time in use.
Fine 12, 15, and Very Fine 20, 25, 30, 35
Starting at Fine 12 (F-12), the lettering and digits should all be clear and crisp. All the way up through Very Fine 35 (VF-35), circulation wear is still easily visible on high points with the naked eye. This wear will be visible down to recessed areas at F-12, but only noticeable on high points by VF-35.
Extremely Fine 40 and 45
Extremely Fine 40 (EF-40 or XF-40) is the lowest grade where you might not notice any circulation wear at a glance. However, under close inspection, EF-40 and EF-45 will both display minor wear on the high points, and with a bit of practice, it becomes easy to spot. Traces of original mint luster may remain in areas protected by design elements.
Almost Uncirculated 50, 53, 55, and 58
Almost Uncirculated (AU) coins are generally desirable and are commonly quite attractive. These pieces will display very little wear, usually discernible only by minor softness or color difference on the highest points of the design. They should show some original mint luster, and can be easy to mistake for uncirculated specimens to the untrained eye. In general, lower-end AU coins (ex. AU-50) will have low eye appeal, with a lot of bag marks, low luster, etc. AU-58 coins, however, are typically very well struck and appealing pieces that have almost unnoticeable wear. AU-58 pieces commonly come with a bit of a premium thanks to collectors working on “everyman sets,” which are entirely comprised of coins in AU-58 or below. Again, many collectors enjoy coins that saw some use as actual money but still show a great deal of originality, instead of pieces that just languished in vaults.
Mint State 60-70
No numbers are skipped between 60 and 70, and all of them are considered Mint State (MS). This is largely due to the intense trading of some uncirculated coins, which tend to be in greater demand by advanced numismatists. Minute differences in contact marks can translate into huge prices. These are coins that show no evidence of circulation wear and look the same as when they were first minted. The differences within Mint State grades are determined by the quality of the strike, luster, severity and location of contact marks, and most importantly, the general eye appeal of the piece. An MS-60 coin is usually a rather unattractive coin, often accompanied by numerous bag marks and very weak strike. An MS-70 is near impossible to find among many older types, and for the most part, only modern issues are able to attain an MS-70. Terms like Choice Brilliant Uncirculated or “Gem BU” are commonly used numismatic jargon for MS-63 and MS-65 respectively.
Details Grades
There are multiple flaws that are considered undesirable and will result in a “details” grade, lowering the value of the coin. If it has been cleaned, scratched, mishandled, or suffered other environmental damage, it will be considered problematic. These pieces still receive a verbal descriptor of the overall condition, but are not assigned a number (ex. EF Details).
Comics
Standard Grading Scale
Gem Mint10
The highest grade assigned. The collectible must have no evidence of any manufacturing or handling defects.
Mint9.9
The collectible is nearly indistinguishable from a 10.0 but will have a very minor manufacturing defect. It will not have any evidence of handling defects.
NM/M9.8
A nearly perfect collectible with negligible handling or manufacturing defects.
NM+9.6
A very well-preserved collectible with several minor manufacturing or handling defects.
NM9.4
A very well-preserved collectible with minor wear and small manufacturing or handling defects.
NM-9.2
A very well-preserved collectible with some wear and small manufacturing or handling defects.
VF/NM9.0
A very well-preserved collectible with good eye appeal. There will be a number of minor handling and/or manufacturing defects.
VF+8.5
An attractive collectible with a moderate defect or a number of small defects.
VF8.0
An attractive collectible with a moderate defect or an accumulation of small defects.
VF-7.5
An above-average collectible with a moderate defect or an accumulation of small defects.
FN/VF7.0
An above-average collectible with a major defect or an accumulation of small defects.
FN+6.5
An above-average collectible with a major defect and some smaller defects, or a significant accumulation of small defects.
FN6.0
A slightly above-average collectible with a major defect and some smaller defects, or a significant accumulation of small defects.
FN-5.5
A slightly above-average collectible with several moderate defects.
VG/FN5.0
An average collectible with several moderate defects.
VG+4.5
A slightly below-average collectible with multiple moderate defects.
VG4.0
A below-average collectible with multiple moderate defects.
VG-3.5
A below-average collectible with several major defects or an accumulation of multiple moderate defects.
G/VG3.0
A collectible that shows significant evidence of handling with several moderate-to-major defects.
G2.5
A collectible that shows extensive evidence of handling with multiple moderate-to-major defects.
G2.0
A collectible that shows extensive evidence of handling with numerous moderate-to-major defects.
G-1.8
A collectible that shows extensive evidence of handling with numerous major defects.
Fa/G1.5
A collectible that shows extensive evidence of handling with a heavy accumulation of major defects.
Fa1.0
A very poorly handled collectible with a heavy accumulation of major defects.
Poor0.5
Heritage Auctions:
Comic Grading
Introduction | Grading Definitions | Scarcity of Comics
10.0 GEM MINT (GM):
An exceptional example of a given book - the best ever seen. Only the slightest bindery or printing defects are allowed. Cover is flat with no surface wear. Inks are bright with high reflectivity. Corners are cut square and sharp. Spine is tight and flat. Staples must be original, centered and clean with no rust. Paper is white, supple and fresh. No interior autographs or owner signatures.
9.9 MINT (MT):
Near perfect in every way. Only subtle bindery or printing defects are allowed. Cover is flat with no surface wear. Inks are bright with high reflectivity and minimal fading. Corners are cut square and sharp. Small, inconspicuous, lightly penciled, stamped or inked arrival dates are acceptable as long as they are in an unobtrusive location. Spine is tight and flat. Staples must be original, generally centered and clean with no rust. Paper is white, supple and fresh.
9.8 NEAR MINT/MINT (NM/MT):
Nearly perfect in every way with only minor imperfections that keep it from the next higher grade. Only subtle bindery or printing defects are allowed. Cover is flat with no surface wear. Inks are bright with high reflectivity and minimal fading. Corners are cut square and sharp. Small, inconspicuous, lightly penciled, stamped or inked arrival dates are acceptable as long as they are in an unobtrusive location. Spine is tight and flat. Staples must be original, generally centered and clean with no rust. Paper is white, supple and fresh. Only the slightest interior tears are allowed.
9.6 NEAR MINT+ (NM+):
Nearly perfect with a minor additional virtue or virtues that raise it from Near Mint. Only subtle bindery or printing defects are allowed. No bindery tears are allowed, although on Golden Age books bindery tears of up to 1/8" have been noted. Cover is flat with no surface wear. Inks are bright with high reflectivity and a minimum of fading. One corner may be almost imperceptibly blunted, but still almost sharp and cut square. Almost imperceptible indentations are permissible, but no creases, bends, or color break. Small, inconspicuous, lightly penciled, stamped or inked arrival dates are acceptable as long as they are in an unobtrusive location. Spine is tight and flat. Staples must be original, generally centered, with only the slightest discoloration. Paper is off-white, supple and fresh. Only the slightest interior tears are allowed.
9.4 NEAR MINT (NM):
Nearly perfect with only minor imperfections that keep it from the next higher grade. Subtle bindery/printing defects are allowed. Bindery tears must be less than 1/16" on Silver Age and later books, although on Golden Age books bindery tears of up to 1/4" have been noted. Cover is flat with no surface wear. Inks are bright with high reflectivity and a minimum of fading. Corners are cut square and sharp with ever-so-slight blunting permitted. A 1/16" bend is permitted with no color break. Small, inconspicuous, lightly penciled, stamped or inked arrival dates are acceptable as long as they are in an unobtrusive location. Slight foxing. Spine is tight and flat. Staples are generally centered; may have slight discoloration. Almost no stress lines. Paper is off-white to cream, supple and fresh. Slight interior tears are allowed.
9.2 NEAR MINT- (NM-):
Nearly perfect with only a minor additional defect or defects that keep it from Near Mint. A limited number of minor bindery/printing defects are allowed. Cover is flat with no surface wear. Inks are bright with only the slightest dimming of reflectivity. Corners are cut square and sharp with ever-so-slight blunting permitted. A 1/16-1/8" bend is permitted with no color break. Small, inconspicuous, lightly penciled, stamped or inked arrival dates are acceptable as long as they are in an unobtrusive location. Slight foxing. Spine is tight and flat. Staples may show some discoloration. Almost no stress lines. Paper is off-white to cream, supple and fresh. Slight interior tears are allowed.
9.0 VERY FINE/NEAR MINT (VF/NM):
Nearly perfect with outstanding eye appeal. A limited number of bindery/printing defects are allowed. Cover is almost flat with almost imperceptible wear. Inks are bright with slightly diminished reflectivity. An 1/8" bend is allowed if color is not broken. Corners are cut square and sharp with ever-so-slight blunting permitted but no creases. Several lightly penciled, stamped or inked arrival dates are acceptable. Very minor foxing. Spine is tight and flat. Staples may show some discoloration. Only the slightest staple tears are allowed. A very minor accumulation of stress lines may be present if they are nearly imperceptible. Paper is off-white to cream and supple. Very minor interior tears may be present.
8.5 VERY FINE+ (VF+):
Fits the criteria for Very Fine but with an additional virtue or small accumulation of virtues that improves the book's appearance by a perceptible amount.
8.0 VERY FINE (VF):
An excellent copy with outstanding eye appeal. A limited accumulation of minor bindery/printing defects is allowed. Cover is relatively flat with minimal surface wear beginning to show, possibly including some minute wear at corners. Inks are generally bright with moderate to high reflectivity. An unnoticeable 1/4" crease is acceptable if color is not broken. Stamped or inked arrival dates may be present. Minor foxing. Spine is almost completely flat with a possible minor color break. Staples may show some discoloration. Very slight staple tears and a few almost insignificant stress lines may be present. Paper is cream to tan and supple. Centerfold is mostly secure. Minor interior tears at the margin may be present.
7.5 VERY FINE- (VF-):
Fits the criteria for Very Fine but with an additional defect or small accumulation of defects that detracts from the book's appearance by a perceptible amount.
7.0 FINE/VERY FINE (FN/VF):
An above-average copy that shows minor wear but is still relatively flat and clean with outstanding eye appeal. A small accumulation of minor bindery/printing defects is allowed. Minor cover wear beginning to show, possibly including minor creases. Corners may be blunted. Inks are generally bright with a moderate reduction in reflectivity. Stamped or inked arrival dates may be present. Minor foxing. The slightest spine roll may be present, as well as a possible moderate color break. Staples may show some discoloration. Slight staple tears and a small accumulation of light stress lines may be present. Slight rust migration. Paper is cream to tan. Centerfold is mostly secure. Minor interior tears at the margin may be present.
6.5 FINE+ (FN+):
Fits the criteria for Fine but with an additional virtue or small accumulation of virtues that improves the book's appearance by a perceptible amount.
6.0 FINE (FN):
An above-average copy that shows minor wear but is still relatively flat and clean with no significant creasing or other serious defects. Some accumulation of minor bindery/printing defects is allowed. Minor cover wear apparent, with minor to moderate creases. Inks show a significant reduction in reflectivity. Blunted corners are more common, as is minor staining, soiling, discoloration, and/or foxing. Stamped or inked arrival dates may be present. A minor spine roll is allowed. There can also be a 1/4" spine split or severe color break. Staples may show minor discoloration. Minor staple tears and a few slight stress lines may be present, as well as minor rust migration. Paper is tan to brown and fairly supple with no signs of brittleness. Minor interior tears at the margin may be present. Centerfold may be loose.
5.5 FINE- (FN-):
Fits the criteria for Fine but with an additional defect or small accumulation of defects that detracts from the book's appearance by a perceptible amount.
5.0 VERY GOOD/FINE (VG/FN):
An above-average but well used comic book. An accumulation of bindery/printing defects is allowed. Minor to moderate cover wear apparent, with minor to moderate creases and/or dimples. Inks have moderate to low reflectivity. Blunted corners are increasingly common, as is minor to moderate staining, discoloration, and/or foxing. Stamped or inked arrival dates may be present. A minor to moderate spine roll is allowed. A spine split of up to 1/2" may be present. Staples may show minor discoloration. Minor staple tears and minor stress lines may also be present, as well as minor rust migration. Paper is tan to brown with no signs of brittleness. Centerfold may be loose. Minor interior tears may also be present.
4.5 VERY GOOD+ (VG):
Fits the criteria for Very Good but with an additional virtue or small accumulation of virtues that improves the book's appearance by a perceptible amount.
4.0 VERY GOOD (VG):
The average used comic book. Cover shows moderate to significant wear, and may be loose but not completely detached. Cover reflectivity is low. Can have moderate creases or dimples. Corners may be blunted. Store stamps, name stamps, arrival dates, initials, etc. have no effect on this grade. Some discoloration, fading, foxing, and even minor soiling is allowed. As much as a 1/4" triangle can be missing out of the corner or edge; a missing 1/8" square is also acceptable. Only minor unobtrusive tape and other amateur repair allowed on otherwise high grade copies. Moderate spine roll may be present and/or a 1" spine split. Staples may be discolored. Minor to moderate staple tears and stress lines may be present, as well as some rust migration. Paper is brown but not brittle. Minor to moderate interior tears may be present. Centerfold may be loose or detached at one staple.
3.5 VERY GOOD- (VG-):
Fits the criteria for Very Good but with an additional defect or small accumulation of defects that detracts from the book's appearance by a perceptible amount.
3.0 GOOD/VERY GOOD (GD/VG):
A used comic book showing some substantial wear. Cover shows significant wear, and may be loose or even detached at one staple. Cover reflectivity is very low. Can have a book-length crease and/or dimples. Corners may be blunted or even rounded. Discoloration, fading, foxing, and even minor to moderate soiling is allowed. A triangle from 1/4" to 1/2" can be missing out of the corner or edge; a missing 1/8" to 1/4" square is also acceptable. Tape and other amateur repair may be present. Moderate spine roll likely. May have a spine split of anywhere from 1" to 1-1/2". Staples may be rusted or replaced. Minor to moderate staple tears and moderate stress lines may be present, as well as some rust migration. Paper is brown but not brittle. Centerfold may be loose or detached at one staple. Minor to moderate interior tears may be present.
2.5 GOOD+ (GD+):
Fits the criteria for Good but with an additional virtue or small accumulation of virtues that improves the book's appearance by a perceptible amount.
2.0 GOOD (GD):
Shows substantial wear; often considered a "reading copy." Cover shows significant wear and may even be detached. Cover reflectivity is low and in some cases completely absent. Book-length creases and dimples may be present. Rounded corners are more common. Moderate soiling, staining, discoloration and foxing may be present. The largest piece allowed missing from the front or back cover is usually a 1/2" triangle or a 1/4" square, although some Silver Age books such as 1960s Marvels have had the price corner box clipped from the top left front cover and may be considered Good if they would otherwise have graded higher. Tape and other forms of amateur repair are common in Silver Age and older books. Spine roll is likely. May have up to a 2" spine split. Staples may be degraded, replaced or missing. Moderate staple tears and stress lines may be present, as well as rust migration. Paper is brown but not brittle. Centerfold may be loose or detached. Moderate interior tears may be present.
1.8 GOOD- (GD-):
Fits the criteria for Good but with an additional defect or small accumulation of defects that detracts from the book's appearance by a perceptible amount.
1.5 FAIR/GOOD (FR/GD):
Shows substantial to heavy wear. Books in this grade are commonly creased, scuffed, abraded, soiled, and possibly unattractive, but still generally readable. Cover shows considerable wear and may be detached. Almost no cover reflectivity remaining. Book-length creases, tears and folds may be present. Rounded corners are increasingly common. Soiling, staining, discoloration and foxing is generally present. Up to 1/10 of the back cover may be missing. Tape and other forms of amateur repair are increasingly common in Silver Age and older books. Spine roll is common. May have a spine split between 2" and 2/3 the length of the book. Staples may be degraded, replaced or missing. Staple tears and stress lines are common, as well as rust migration. Paper is brown and may show brittleness around the edges. Acidic odor may be present. Centerfold may be loose or detached. Interior tears are common.
1.0 FAIR (FR):
Shows heavy wear. Some collectors consider this the lowest collectible grade because comic books in lesser condition are usually incomplete and/or brittle. Cover may be detached, and inks have lost all reflectivity. Creases, tears and/or folds are prevalent. Corners are commonly rounded or absent. Soiling and staining is present. Books in this condition generally have all pages and most of the covers, although there may be up to 1/4 of the front cover missing or no back cover, but not both. Tape and other forms of amateur repair are more common. Spine roll is more common; spine split can extend up to 2/3 the length of the book. Staples may be missing or show rust and discoloration. An accumulation of staple tears and stress lines may be present, as well as rust migration. Paper is brown and may show brittleness around the edges but not in the central portion of the pages. Acidic odor may be present. Accumulation of interior tears. Chunks may be missing. The centerfold may be missing if readability is generally preserved. Coupons may be cut.
0.5 POOR (PR):
Sufficiently degraded to the point where there is little or no collector value; easily identified by a complete absence of eye appeal. Brittle almost to the point of turning to dust with a touch, and usually incomplete. Extreme fading may render the cover almost indiscernible. May have extremely severe stains, mildew or heavy cover abrasion to the point that some cover inks are indistinct/absent. Covers may be detached with large chunks missing. Can have extremely ragged edges and extensive creasing. Corners are rounded or virtually absent. Covers may have been defaced with paints, varnishes, glues, oil, indelible markers or dyes, and may have suffered heavy water damage. Can also have extensive amateur repairs such as laminated covers. Extreme spine roll present; can have extremely ragged spines or a complete, book-length split. Staples can be missing or show extreme rust and discoloration. Extensive staple tears and stress lines may be present, as well as extreme rust migration. Paper exhibits moderate to severe brittleness (where the comic book literally falls apart when examined). Extreme acidic odor may be present. Extensive interior tears. Multiple pages, including the centerfold, may be missing that affect readability. Coupons may be cut.
COVERLESS COMICS:
The exception to the "not collectible in Poor" rule. Many collectors want clean, readable, coverless comics that are priced fairly. Coverless copies of key and/or rare comics are often in demand by collectors. These enthusiasts also seek coverless comics to retrieve centerfolds, first wraparounds, coupons and even staples in order to restore other copies of the same or a similar incomplete comic.
INCOMPLETE/UNCOLLECTIBLE:
At the very bottom of the range, comics with the absolute maximum number of defects, heavy degradation, and significant portions of the book missing might not even be considered Poor any longer, but may be termed "incomplete." These books are so ruined as to be rendered unreadable and virtually uncollectible.
Dust Jackets
Many of the early strip reprint comics, as well as many modern graphic novels and collections, were published with hard covers and dust jackets, which can also suffer damage common to comic book covers and may even be absent on some copies if removed by a previous owner or lost. The condition of the dust jacket should be graded independently of the book. Books with dust jackets are worth more. The value can increase from 20 to 50 percent depending on the rarity of book. Usually, the earlier the book, the greater the percentage. Unless noted, prices listed are without dust jackets.
Restored Comics
When restoration of comics first began, it was a collection of crude, damaging attempts to preserve or fix comics exhibiting defects like tears or missing pieces. At first using tape, glue and color pens, restoration soon evolved, utilizing more advanced techniques like chemical baths and deacidification. Today, professional restorers work in a quickly maturing field using methods that have stood the test of time. There is a stigma attached to restoration, however - one that has grown in recent years due to the unethical behavior of some who conceal restoration of certain books from potential buyers. Many collectors lack detailed knowledge about how restored comics relate to the market as well, resulting in confusion and trepidation.
Many comics are unnecessarily put through the process, begging the question, 'when should I restore my comics?' If a comic is in VG or better, do not restore it. Restoration is meant to preserve deteriorating comics, taking an ugly pile of loose pages and restoring them to an attractive form that can be handled and enjoyed. In the case of comics in VG or higher grades, the book is already an attractive item and restoration would be excessive.
The value of the comic should also be high enough to justify restoration. With hourly rates hitting three figures for restoration, only very valuable books should be candidates. It's recommended to avoid restoring Silver Age comics, apart from key issues, due to their relative availability. Restored Silver Age comics also do not rise in value as much as a restored Golden Age comic.
Bindery chips, a common defect in Golden Age comics, are considered printing defects, and are relatively acceptable in the market. Restoration on such a defect by itself would usually be considered excessive. Books with brown or brittle pages are usually not good candidates either. Even though them comic will look better, its page quality will still rate a lower grade. Bleaching and other treatments can be used, but are expensive, frowned upon and not very effective. Only the most expensive books should ever be considered for page treatment. Similarly, books missing covers and interior pages are poor candidates for restoration. A comic must be relatively complete to be successfully restored.
Preventative restoration, widely used and accepted by collectors, consists of "non-additive" restoration on a book with one or two major defects. A prime example would be a $2,000 book in Fine that has a 2" piece of tape on the cover. Removal of the tape improves the value and appearance of the book. The process is cheap and quick, and nothing is "added" to the comic, such as Japan paper or color touch (see the glossary for definitions). Although it's always imperative to disclose any and all restoration work on a book, some collectors don't even view these simple repairs as restoration. Other defects fixable by "preventative" techniques are water stains, warping, dirt or writing, rusty staples, and spine rolls. These minor fixes work best with books above VG, the one exception to the rule noted earlier.
Once restored, a comic's value depends upon several factors: The amount of restoration: In general, the more restoration has been performed, the less the comic is worth compared to its apparent grade value. A lightly restored book will be valued higher than a book with heavy restoration in the same apparent grade.
The "before" and "restored" grades: As a rule of thumb, consider these formulae:
- Golden Age key issues:
(value before restoration)+(value of apparent grade)/2.5 - Golden Age common issues:
(value before restoration)+(value of apparent grade)/2.0 - Silver Age issues:
(value before restoration)+(value of apparent grade)/3.0
These formulae serve only as a benchmark. Each book is unique and may vary in pricing.
The market demand:
This is highly subjective, but the higher the demand, the likelier your restored book will fetch its apparent grade price. Consequently, if the comic is slow on the market, a restored copy may be less than the value derived from the above formulae.
The market value:
The market fluctuates widely on restored copies of expensive books. A small variance in perception of what a restored copy is worth can mean a difference of thousands of dollars on high end comics (see formulae above). Values tend to be more stable on common books.
Age of the comic:
The younger a comic, the less likely the book will increase in value significantly from restoration. This applies mainly to Silver Age comics, as noted earlier. Armed with this knowledge and a good understanding of the market, you should be able to make an informed decision about restoration. When in doubt, contact a reputable dealer or collector who is familiar with restored comics in the marketplace.
*Reprinted by permission from The Overstreet Comic Book Price Guide #34. © 2004 Gemstone Publishing, Inc. Overstreet ® is a Registered Trademark of Gemstone Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved.
Action Figures
Collectible Toys & Action Figures
Understanding the grading system for collectible toys and action figures is crucial for collectors, sellers, and investors. Below is a detailed breakdown of each grade, from pristine, museum-quality pieces to heavily worn items with significant damage.
C10 – PERFECT CONDITION (100%)
• This grade is reserved exclusively for factory-sealed, never-opened items.
• The packaging is flawless, with no dents, creases, fading, or shelf wear.
• The figure inside is untouched, retaining original factory condition with no defects.
• Stored under ideal conditions, free from exposure to dust, moisture, or sunlight.
• Highly desirable among collectors, particularly for rare or limited-edition figures.
C9 – MINT (Pristine) CONDITION (90%)
• The highest possible grade for a vintage item that is no longer factory-sealed.
• The figure is in perfect shape with no paint wear, discoloration, or loose joints.
• Packaging, if present, may have extremely minor imperfections, such as faint surface wear or tiny corner creases.
• Accessories are complete, intact, and in excellent condition.
• Ideal for collectors looking for near-perfect vintage figures without the premium price of sealed items.
C8.5 – NEAR MINT CONDITION (85%)
• Almost indistinguishable from Mint but may have one or two barely noticeable imperfections.
• Figure remains in excellent shape with no significant damage or wear.
• If packaging is included, it may have very minor creasing, scuffing, or slight discoloration.
• All accessories should be present, though they may show minimal signs of handling.
• A great option for collectors who want a high-quality piece at a slightly lower price than Mint condition.
C8 – VERY GOOD CONDITION (80%)
• Figure is well-preserved but may show minor signs of aging or handling.
• Small amounts of paint wear, slight discoloration, or minor looseness in joints may be present.
• Packaging, if available, could have moderate wear, including small tears, fading, or edge fraying.
• Accessories should be mostly complete, though minor wear or slight replacements may be acceptable.
• A solid collector’s piece that maintains aesthetic appeal while being more affordable than Near Mint.
C7.5 – GOOD CONDITION (75%)
• Noticeable signs of use, but still structurally intact and visually appealing.
• Moderate paint wear, some joint looseness, or minor discoloration may be present.
• If packaging is included, it may have visible creases, tears, or fading.
• Accessories may be incomplete or have minor damage.
• A respectable mid-tier option for collectors who value displayability over perfection.
C7 – AVERAGE CONDITION (70%)
• Figure has clear signs of wear, such as paint chipping, minor cracks, or fading.
• Joints may be loose, but the figure remains functional and poseable.
• Packaging, if present, may be heavily worn, including major creasing, dents, or tears.
• Some accessories may be missing or replaced with reproductions.
• Often used as an entry-level collectible or as a filler piece in a collection.
C6.5 – REASONABLE CONDITION (65%)
• Significant wear and tear, including heavy paint loss, noticeable fading, or joint instability.
• May have minor cracks, missing decals, or discoloration from age or poor storage.
• If packaging exists, it is heavily damaged, potentially missing flaps or inserts.
• Accessories are likely incomplete or in poor condition.
• Mostly valued for nostalgia or restoration projects rather than as a pristine collectible.
C6 – POOR CONDITION (60%)
• Major defects, including severe paint loss, broken parts, or extreme discoloration.
• Joints may be excessively loose or entirely broken.
• Packaging, if any, is in poor shape with major rips, stains, or missing sections.
• Accessories are likely missing, damaged, or replaced with low-quality substitutes.
• Primarily of interest to restoration experts, customizers, or those seeking affordable placeholders in their collection.
Conclusion
Grading collectible toys and action figures ensures transparency in value, making it easier for buyers and sellers to assess condition accurately. While C10 and C9 figures are prized for their pristine quality, lower-graded pieces still have value, whether for display, customization, or nostalgia.
Fine Artwork
Paintings & Sculptures
Understanding the Grading System for Fine Art and Sculptures
Fine art and sculptures are evaluated based on a structured grading system that considers factors such as authenticity, craftsmanship, historical significance, and condition. While grading can vary between institutions, collectors, and auction houses, the following classification provides a comprehensive guide to assessing the quality and value of artworks and sculptures.
1. Museum-Quality (Grade A++)
These are the highest-caliber works, often housed in museums or prestigious private collections.
• Historical and Artistic Significance: Created by renowned artists or master sculptors, often associated with major art movements.
• Provenance: Well-documented history of ownership, with records from reputable galleries, auctions, or institutions.
• Condition: Flawless or near-perfect condition with minimal restoration. Any restoration has been done by experts and does not affect the integrity of the piece.
• Materials & Craftsmanship: Made from premium materials such as marble, bronze, gold leaf, or oil on canvas with masterful technique.
• Rarity: One-of-a-kind, limited edition, or part of an artist’s most celebrated works.
• Market Value: Among the most expensive in the art world, often exceeding millions in value.
2. Investment-Grade (Grade A+)
These artworks and sculptures are highly desirable and retain strong market value.
• Artist Recognition: Created by a well-known artist, but not necessarily their most famous work.
• Provenance: Strong history of ownership, often verified by leading art institutions.
• Condition: Excellent condition with minor restorations that do not compromise artistic integrity.
• Materials & Craftsmanship: High-quality materials with exceptional execution.
• Rarity: Rare but may have similar versions or limited editions.
• Market Value: Appreciates over time, often purchased by collectors and investors.
3. Collector-Grade (Grade A)
These works are valuable and sought after by art collectors.
• Artist Recognition: May be by a notable artist, though not necessarily their best-known work.
• Provenance: Some documentation of ownership history, but may not be fully complete.
• Condition: Good condition with minor wear, aging, or professional restoration.
• Materials & Craftsmanship: High artistic quality, though not at the level of museum or investment-grade works.
• Rarity: Less rare but still desirable within art markets.
• Market Value: Holds strong resale value and is actively traded among collectors.
4. Gallery-Grade (Grade B+)
Often displayed in galleries and sold to art enthusiasts rather than high-end investors.
• Artist Recognition: Created by emerging or mid-tier artists with growing reputations.
• Provenance: May lack extensive documentation, but authentication is still possible.
• Condition: Generally good, but may have noticeable signs of aging or prior restoration.
• Materials & Craftsmanship: Well-executed but may use less expensive materials.
• Rarity: May be part of an edition or a series rather than a unique piece.
• Market Value: Has commercial value but is not expected to appreciate significantly.
5. Decorative-Grade (Grade B)
Art and sculptures in this category are aesthetically pleasing but not necessarily investment-worthy.
• Artist Recognition: Often by lesser-known artists or anonymous creators.
• Provenance: Limited or no documented history.
• Condition: May have minor damages, patina, or restoration work.
• Materials & Craftsmanship: Good quality but may lack the refinement of higher-grade works.
• Rarity: Often mass-produced or available in multiple copies.
• Market Value: Primarily valued for decorative purposes rather than investment.
6. Commercial-Grade (Grade C+)
These pieces are commonly found in retail and mass-market settings.
• Artist Recognition: Typically unknown or mass-production studios.
• Provenance: No traceable history.
• Condition: Generally new or well-maintained but lacks historical significance.
• Materials & Craftsmanship: Made from cost-effective materials such as resin, plaster, or synthetic paints.
• Rarity: Mass-produced and widely available.
• Market Value: Minimal appreciation over time, primarily purchased for home decor.
7. Reproduction-Grade (Grade C)
These are copies or replicas of famous artworks and sculptures.
• Artist Recognition: Not by the original artist; made by reproduction studios.
• Provenance: No connection to the original artwork.
• Condition: Can be well-made, but lacks originality.
• Materials & Craftsmanship: Varies in quality, ranging from high-end reproductions to low-cost imitations.
• Rarity: Common and easily replaceable.
• Market Value: Little to no investment value, intended for display rather than collection.
8. Damaged or Salvage-Grade (Grade D)
These artworks or sculptures are significantly damaged and may require extensive restoration.
• Artist Recognition: Could be a well-known artist, but the condition greatly reduces value.
• Provenance: May have historical significance, but restoration challenges impact authentication.
• Condition: Cracked, chipped, faded, or missing elements.
• Materials & Craftsmanship: Original quality may have been high, but deterioration affects integrity.
• Rarity: Some rare pieces may still hold value if they can be restored.
• Market Value: Limited resale potential unless professionally restored.
Conclusion
Grading fine art and sculptures is essential for collectors, investors, and enthusiasts to determine an artwork’s true worth. Understanding these classifications helps buyers make informed decisions, ensuring they acquire pieces that align with their artistic appreciation, investment goals, or decorative needs. Whether purchasing a museum-quality masterpiece or a decorative reproduction, recognizing these distinctions adds clarity to the complex world of fine art.
